Every once in a while I gain a new client from "corrective color" experiences. The cases vary from do it yourselfers (box color) to previous hairstyists. Error can happen from improper application, damage from too high developers or overprocessing or so fourth. I never talk bad about another hairstylist's work as it would just be in poor taste but I do like to ask questions about previous hair color/chemical history to make the best judgement on color.

So is the case with my lovely client Courtney, she had a previous hair color lightening job done that she was less than thrilled about. Most importantly, is the consultation and I need to really understand her wants and needs when it comes to visualizing her ideal hairstyle.

In this blog I will show before and after images along with images of application and formulation. She ultimately wants to be lighter along with a fringe and shapely layers. Courtney's hair is very thick with a slight wave pattern. A level 6 with natural red understones.

its all in the set  up  Product Club color mixer and foil dispenser, Framar color brushes, Redken Balayage Paddle, ColorTrak long foils — its all in the set up Product Club color mixer and foil dispenser, Framar color brushes, Redken Balayage Paddle, ColorTrak long foils

Courtney opts for low maintenance and comes into the salon every three to four months so balayage applications are ideal for her hair. She has no grey so I do both a foil and open air hair color technique (there are many numerous ways to go about correction but I found this technique to be easily executed). I'll be diffusing the points of lightener a few inches from her regrowth since she wants that "lived in look".

I did an all over finely foiled highlight about 3/4 inch about. I used Redken's Flash Lift lightener with 20 vol along with pH Bonder. Afterwards I balayaged all the exposed hair with Redken Free hand clay lightener and 40 vol with pH Bonder and allowed to process at room temperature for 45 minutes.

After processing hair was shampooed and treated. Shades EQ gloss was applied all over to her blown dried hair for 20 minutes. Formula 1 oz Crystal clear 1/2 09B, 1/2 09P and 2 0z processing solution.

I did a graduated layer hair cut to remove bulk with vertical cutting and created a soft horizontal fringe with point cutting.

Hair was styled with Pillow Proof Primer Spray and Guts 10 and a round brush. Take home recommendations pH Bonder treatment and Extreme shampoo and Conditioner. Iron Shape 11 is a must for any iron work on the hair.

before profile

Romance, Beauty, love and all things pretty. I have wanted to do a Valentine Themed photoshoot for some time. My creative partner, Genna Yussman Greene suggested we do one at the beginning of 2017. Genna had put together some vintage dressers and I wanted to do some classy updos and polished hair. We enlisted our buddy, Isidro Valencia for make up and two gorgeous models and our team was set.

We wanted to fuse romance, with big hair and vintage styling for a timeless feel. Genna ordered a custom floral backdrop to be used for the shoot. We chose two gorgeous models, Emily and Kristina. We have worked with both before and chose both girls for their beautiful facial structures, Their tall lean looks and their positive attitudes on set.

This collection was release exclusively by Bangstyle as a featured collection. The staff at Bangstyle have been so supportive of the work we do and they said the timing for the release was perfect.

For Make up Isidro created a soft look consisting of soft smoky eyes, pink pastels color on eyes, shimmer, rosy cheeks and soft contoured cheeks.

Spring make up 2018 by Isidro modeled by Emily

For This undo I converged all of Kristina's hair upwards into a ponytail I then added a long hair pad and a large wefted hair extension and form the hair over the pad into the shape using Fashion Works 12 and a finishing brush from Tearsheet. Control Addict 28 was used to finalize the look.

For this Fishtail undo, I fishtailed braided random sections on Emily's entire head then with the ends pinned them between the sections created for the fishtails.

This updo was a lot of fun. I was watching a lot of the old "Dynasty" so I did this timeless, voluminous undo with Redken's Guts 10 for volume. Next hair was pulled upwards into a couple of ponytails. A small hair pad was used for the bump on top that hair was covered with Emily's hair using Fashion Works 12. I smoothed the hair using a small finishing brush. The other ponytails that hair was backcombed, smoothed and rolled into shape with bobbie pins. Finished with Control Addict 28 and Shine Flash 03.

The vintage look was set using Iron Shape 11 and Sam Villa's marcel iron and pinned to cool. Afterwards the hair was brushed out using Tearsheet's static free large tail comb and Fashion Works 12. No bend clips were placed in the hair to set it while Isidro finished Emily's her make up application.

Kristina's hair was set in the same fashion with Emily's only different placement and finished with Control Addict 28.

Credits

Photography | Wardrobe | Set Design | Genna Yussman Greene @gennayussman

Hair | Matthew Tyldesley @haibymatt

Make Up | Isidro Valencia @valencia0612

Models | Kristina Russ @kristina_russ

Emily Bennett @emilybennett_

CORRECTIVE BALAYAGE

My Vintage Valentine