CORRECTIVE BALAYAGE

Every once in a while I gain a new client from "corrective color" experiences. The cases vary from do it yourselfers (box color) to previous hairstyists. Error can happen from improper application, damage from too high developers or overprocessing or so fourth. I never talk bad about another hairstylist's work as it would just be in poor taste but I do like to ask questions about previous hair color/chemical history to make the best judgement on color. 

after shot of miss Courtney

after shot of miss Courtney

So is the case with my lovely client Courtney, she had a previous hair color lightening job done that she was less than thrilled about. Most importantly, is the consultation and I need to really understand her wants and needs when it comes to visualizing her ideal hairstyle.

before

before

In this blog I will show before and after images along with images of application and formulation. She ultimately wants to be lighter along with a fringe and shapely layers. Courtney's hair is very thick with a slight wave pattern. A level 6 with natural red understones.

its all in the set  up  Product Club color mixer and foil dispenser, Framar color brushes, Redken Balayage Paddle, ColorTrak long foils

its all in the set  up  Product Club color mixer and foil dispenser, Framar color brushes, Redken Balayage Paddle, ColorTrak long foils

Courtney opts for low maintenance and comes into the salon every three to four months so balayage applications are ideal for her hair. She has no grey so I do both a foil and open air hair color technique (there are many numerous ways to go about correction but I found this technique to be easily executed). I'll be diffusing the points of lightener a few inches from her regrowth since she wants that "lived in look". 

all over foils placed throughout head

all over foils placed throughout head

I did an all over finely foiled highlight about 3/4 inch about. I used Redken's Flash Lift lightener with 20 vol along with pH Bonder. Afterwards I balayaged all the exposed hair with Redken Free hand clay lightener and 40 vol with pH Bonder and allowed to process at room temperature for 45 minutes. 

Balayage application between foils 

Balayage application between foils 

After processing hair was shampooed and treated. Shades EQ gloss was applied all over to her blown dried hair for 20 minutes. Formula 1 oz Crystal clear 1/2 09B, 1/2 09P and 2 0z processing solution.

processing 

processing 

I did a graduated layer hair cut to remove bulk with vertical cutting and created a soft horizontal fringe with point cutting. 

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Hair was styled with Pillow Proof Primer Spray and Guts 10 and a round brush. Take home recommendations pH Bonder treatment and Extreme shampoo and Conditioner. Iron Shape 11 is a must for any iron work on the hair. 

after

before profile

before profile

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after

before shot

before shot

Shades EQ Pastel Pink N Peachy

So excited when a new color line is launched by Redken. Especially these new Shades EQ gloss Pastels.

My client, Karen wanted to experiment with pink hair of sorts and I had mentioned the introduction of new pastel hues by Redken in Shades EQ Glosses.

My client, Karen wanted to experiment with pink hair of sorts and I had mentioned the introduction of new pastel hues by Redken in Shades EQ Glosses.

before

before

She was game for anything and since she was already a blonde I thought this would be a great opportunity. I decided to lighten her up just a bit so I did a foiled highlight with some heavy balayage lightening on the ends using Redken Flashlights combined with pH Bonder along with Colortrak Long foils.

before

before

After processing, treating the hair with #2 in pH Bonder and shampooing I did a flash tone at the shampoo bowl using 09T in Shades EQ Glosses.

application 

application 

application 

application 

I dried the hair then proceeded to mix up Shades EQ pastels Pink and Peach.

after pre lightening 

after pre lightening 

after pre lightening 

after pre lightening 

color was mixed with Product Club Mixer

color was mixed with Product Club Mixer

I applied the peach zone in her root area and alternated between pink and peach through the ends of her entire head on Colortrak Meche Strips. Processed at room temperature for 25 minutes. Shampooed and conditioned proceeded by styling.

Shades Pastels processing on Colortrak Meche

Shades Pastels processing on Colortrak Meche

I round brushed Karen's hair with Pillow Proof Primer spray followed by Guts 10. Afterward I spiral curled the hair with the Sam Villa curling wand and Iron Shape 11. The color lasted about 4 weeks and head a beautiful, sheer rose gold finish.

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